Homemade Zippered Toiletry Case
A little note on waste reduction. I’m downright uncomfortable with the amount of waste my family produces. Trying to go zero waste in a cold turkey sort of way can be totally overwhelming and incredibly time consuming. But I find tackling the problem one item at a time is much more manageable. I’m in the process of eliminating the need for Ziploc bags entirely in our home. I have beeswax rolls for food, a cloth roll for my utensils and another cloth roll for my makeup brushes. Now I’m trying to avoid using plastic while traveling. In an effort to reduce waste and plastic use, I made a DIY zippered toiletry case instead.
I love to replace Ziploc bags with more sustainable options. Anything is better than single-use plastic. Taking it a step further, I repurposed my fabric scraps for this project instead of buying brand new fabric. I recently turned the twins’ old changing table terry cloth pad covers into washcloths and kitchen cleaning cloths. I was able to turn three pad covers into twelve 13in x 13in reusable, washable cleaning cloths.
With a little sewing knowledge you shouldn’t have any trouble following along. This tutorial requires little skill and is easy and fun to make. I also used a cute cotton print as the outer fabric. It’s from an old fat quarter sized (18″x21″).
Things to know
This tutorial will be for a 12″ zipper, but I will give you some dimensions and tips at the end to make other sizes.
This tutorial is specifically designed for metal zippers. You can make the bag with a nylon zipper and it will work just fine. Since you can sew over nylon zippers, the zipper can actually be longer than required since you simply cut off the excess after you sew the sides of the bag. However, I prefer metal zippers so I created this tutorial with the unique challenges of metal zippers in mind.
While I say “pin” throughout this tutorial, using clover clips (or tiny binder clips) is often easier with the bulk of all the fabric layers.
Please check out Pink Stitches for a great tutorial on how to make boxy bags without exposed seams.
Also, check out this video tutorial, as it will explain how to add a carrying handle to your boxy bag if you want to try that.
How To Make
DIY Zippered Toiletry Case
Materials
- 12″ metal zipper (should be about 13.5″)
- Exterior fabric (home décor works best) pouch 13.5″x17″
- Exterior fabric for tabs 4″x7″
- Lining fabric 13.5″x17″
- Desired interfacing: SF101, batting, fusible fleece, or duck cloth**
Tip: If using a directional print, the top of the print should be the 13.5″ side. If you want the print to look correct from both sides of the zipper (and not right on one side and upside down on the other), cut two pieces of exterior fabric 13.5″x 8.75″ then sew them together with a 1/4″ seam allowance so that the print is facing the right way along both 13.5″ sides.
Step 1
After you cut your fabrics, interface them as desired.
This pouch has two layers of Pellon SF 101 on the exterior fabric.
Step 2
Fold the 4″x7″ piece in half lengthwise and press
Step 3
Open it up and fold the ends in toward the center crease.
Step 4
Refold along the center crease to give you an approximately 1″x7″ piece. Topstitch along either side.
Step 5
Cut in half to get two 1″x3.5″ pieces. These will be your tab pulls. These are very helpful for this type of pouch when you try to open and close it.
Step 6
Now it’s time to make a zipper “sandwich.” Place your lining fabric right side up and place your zipper right side up. This means that you should be able to see the zipper pull.
Step 7
Place the exterior fabric right side down.
Step 8
Pin along the top edge.
Step 9
Using your zipper foot attachment, sew the layers together using a ¼” seam allowance.
Step 10
Do not sew the area where the zipper pull is. Stop before you get to the pull.
Step 11
Then pull the zipper pull down past the area you have already sewn and resume sewing your zipper sandwich where you left off.
This makes it easier and yields cleaner, more even results along your zipper.
Depending on which way you oriented your zipper when making the first zipper sandwich, your zipper pull may be on top first.
If that is the case, just start a bit below the zipper pull with your 1/4″ seam and go to the end of the zipper.
Once you’re done, unzip it and start back at the beginning.
If you feel more comfortable backstitching when you pause during the zipper attachment, go for it.
Step 12
Assuming your fabric can be ironed, press both the exterior and lining fabric away from the zipper.
We will be top stitching next and you don’t want to get your fabric bunched up near the zipper where it can get caught.
Press all fabric away from the zipper.
Be careful because metal zippers get really hot under an iron.
Step 13
Top stitch about 1/8″ away from the edge of the exterior fabric.
This gives your pouch a more finished look and holds all the layers together so nothing gets caught in your zipper.
Step 14
Here’s a close-up of the topstitching.
Step 15
Now repeat the previous steps to attach the zipper to the other size of the lining and exterior.
Step 16
Layer the lining right side up, the zipper right side up and the exterior fabric right side down.
Step 17
Here’s another view of what your sandwich should look like the second time around.
Step 18
Pin in place.
Step 19
I started sewing below where the zipper pull was this time. I then go back, unzip the zipper and sew over the beginning bit I skipped.
You want your seam allowance to be consistent when attaching the layers to the zipper tape.
Step 20
Again, press your exterior and lining fabric away from the zipper.
Step 21
Top stitching the second side can be challenging. Go slow and gently fold the rest of your pouch back and out of your way so your needle can make it all the way to the end.
Step 22
Here’s a close up view of how I folded the pouch over during the top stitching process.
Step 23
Turn your pouch wrong (lining) side out and then flatten the pouch so that the zipper is centered on top and the exterior sides are facing.
I don’t give exact measurements here because it can vary depending on the type of fabric and interfacing you use. Feel free to get out your ruler and make sure the zipper is centered.
If you have a directional print and have cut two exterior pieces, you have a natural guide line as to the center with the seam in your exterior.
Line up the seam with the zipper. Unzip your zipper.
Step 24
Fold your 1”x3.5” tabs in half and insert them in between the exterior sides, centered at each side of the zipper.
If you don’t accurately center the tab, you’re going to notice it when the pouch is done, so take your time and center the tab.
Step 25
The raw edges of the tabs should be lined up with the raw edges of the flattened pouch.
Step 26
Pin the raw edges. Repeat for the other side of the pouch.
Step 27
Using a 5/8″ seam allowance, sew along the sides of the flattened pouch.
Never sew over the metal zipper.
Step 28
If you’ve followed all the previous instructions, your needle should pass near, but not over the actual zipper.
You should only be sewing through the zipper tape.
Step 29
Using a rotary cutter and ruler, trim the seam allowance on the sides down to 1/4″.
Step 30
Measuring 1.75″ from the stitch line, not the edge of the pouch.
Draw and cut a 1.75″ square from each corner of the pouch.
Step 31
The piece should actually measure 1.75″x2″ since one side will have the 1/4 seam allowance.
Step 32
Use good scissors or a small rotary cutter here to keep the cutting lines clean and your work neater.
Step 33
Repeat for all 4 corners.
Step 34
Using a thread that coordinates with your lining, sew a tight zig zag (serge) over the exposed side seams to tidy them up and keep them from fraying.
I usually go over them twice with a stitch length of .7 and a width of 6. Better to do a slightly looser zig zag and go over it twice.
Then trim any small loose threads that remain. Take your time with this step to keep your work clean.
Matching the thread you use in this step with your lining will keep the exposed seams from being as noticeable when your pouch is done.
Step 35
Box all four corners by opening each corner, centering the side seam, flattening the zig-zagged side seam away from the zipper (toward the bottom of the bag), and forming a straight line.
Step 36
Pin in place.
Step 37
Using a 1/4″ seam allowance, sew each of the four boxed corners closed.
Step 38
Using the same method described above, zigzag all four corners.
Step 39
Trim excess threads.
Step 40
Flip the bag right side out through the opening left in the zipper.
That’s it! You’re done!
Tips for other sizes
- For 14″ zippers, I cut my fabric 15.5″x18″ and use the same measurements for boxing the corners as I did with my 12″ zipper.
- For 9″ zippers, I cut my fabric 10.5″x15″ and boxy my corners at 1.25″ to 1.5″
- I always cut my fabric width the length of the zipper TAPE not the length of the zipper. So my 12″ zippers have a 13.5″ tape, the 14″ zippers have a 15.5″ tape, and the 9″ zippers have a 10.5″ tape. The second measurement you can vary to get a different look.
- Feel free to experiment with different size zippers, different length fabrics, and different size boxed corners to make your pouch uniquely you.
I love that it’s totally washable and I will never have to use a Ziploc bag ever again. Plus this size is big enough to contain the whole family’s various toiletries. Lastly, be sure to fill with sustainable, plastic-free and zero waste toiletries like the ones above.
A Word about Interfacing
I highly suggest you play around with various types of interfacing/fabric combinations to see what you like best. Interfacing will determine the shape and weight of your bag so it’s very important. The two most common ways I interface are with two layers of Pellon SF 101 (shape flex) on my exterior, or with batting and a quilted exterior. If this is your first time making a pouch and/or you have no experience with interfacing, try two layers of Pellon SF101. It’s simple and will give your bag some shape without adding bulk.
The thing to keep in mind about adding batting or fleece is that it will add bulk around your zipper. This is really only a concern for newbies. I don’t want to make your life harder so I simply suggest you try the easiest way first before you graduate to methods that could potentially cause you more trouble. As for duck cloth, I have had success using duck cloth in between my exterior and lining fabrics to give a lot more heft to quilting cottons. Duck cloth can be trickier to use since it adds a third, movable layer to the pouch. Also, depending on the exterior fabric you use, you may not even need interfacing.
I’ve made pouches using a heavy gold vinyl and I do not use any interfacing with those. So always be aware of your starting materials. Heavier weight fabrics will not require the same level of interfacing as quilting cottons and some fabrics cannot be ironed. It’s important to know your fabric, know your interfacing, and don’t be afraid to experiment.
Source and image credits:
https://www.blogger.com/profile/06727515503495123569
https://www.facebook.com/Kelbysews
https://www.twitter.com/kelbysews
http://www.kelbysews.com/2014/03/boxy-bag-tutorial.html