Handmade Children’s Car Basket
As a mommy of twins, I know how handy storage baskets can be. I have made many different types of baskets that I have around the house and in the children’s bedrooms. They are a very practical and easy to clean, lightweight way to store different things. So I decided to make two of these, one for each twin.
It is a children’s basket for the car, it can be hung on the back of the driver’s and passenger’s front seats, tied to the headrest. It will make it easier for you to store various toys, snacks and drinks while driving, and the child will be able to reach for them on their own. The finished basket dimensions are: 21cm H x 20cm W x 11cm D (8 ¼ x 7 ⅞ x 4 ¼ inches). It is preferable to use a sewing machine to sew this basket. The original photos and tutorial instructions were written in Polish, so I took the liberty of translating them into English for my audience (whew!).
How To Make
Here are the complete instructions. I’ve included photos for each step which I hope helps to explain things.
DIY Car Organizer Basket
Materials
- Fabrics: outer 30 x 150 cm (11 ⅞ x 59 inches), inner 25 x 150 cm (9 ¾ x 59 inches) and three matching colors for pockets, 3 pieces each 15 x 28 cm (5 ⅞ x 11 ⅛ inches)
- Stiffening: can be heavy duty Pellon or thick felt (7 mm), need 25 x 100 cm (9 ¾ x 39 ¼ inches)
- Velcro 20 cm length, 1.5 cm wide (7 ⅞” length, ⅝” wide)
- Matching thread
- Paper and pencil
For my inner fabric I used water-repellant (shower curtain) fabric to make it easy to clean it from spills, because…well, you know…kids!
Tools
- Thread cutter
- Seam ripper
- Scissors
- Quilting ruler
- Universal tape measure
- Straight pins
- Pillow for pins
- Fabric pen
- Magnetic ruler
- Hand sewing needles
- Presser feet: blind hem stitch and straight stitch
- Iron and ironing board
Step 1 Cut Out Your Pieces
We start by making a paper pattern. To do this, we draw shapes on paper with dimensions as shown in the picture below. To be 100% sure that the pieces will match perfectly, I suggest after drawing element A measure the length of its arc. If this dimension is different than mine, element C should be lengthened or shortened.
- A = 7 ⅞ x 4 ⅜ inches, with a circumference of 13 ¼ inches
- B = 7 ⅞ x 8 ¼ inches
- C = 13 ¼ x 8 ¼ inches
Cutting
Before cutting the fabric, it should be washed and dried, then pressed (the best method is to iron the damp fabric at a high temperature).
Step 2 Outer Fabric
We will use the same material for the outer fabric, the outer pockets, and the straps. Place the paper pieces on the outer fabric so that you can add a seam allowance of 1.5cm (or ⅝ inch) on 3 sides and 5.5cm (or 2 ⅛ inches), on one side.
For the outer pockets, cut 3 rectangles measuring 12cm W x 14cm H (4 ⅝ x 5 ½ inches), and 4 rectangles measuring 4 x 55 cm (or 1 ⅜ x 21 ¼ inches) for the straps. Here, in both cases, I have already included the seam allowance.
Step 3 Interfacing
I wanted my basket to be stiff and hold its form after placing anything inside, the 7 mm thick felt will help me with that. If you have an idea to use something else, of course, you can use any other hefty material.
Again, place the paper pieces of the pattern on the felt or other interfacing. Draft the pieces without a seam allowance. You will join the edges so that there is no seam allowance, because such a thick felt would distort the shape of the basket. Cut out the pieces.
Step 4 Inner Fabric
Before cutting the inner fabric, reduce the pieces B and C of the paper pattern by 4 cm (or 1 ⅜ inches). Then place the paper pattern pieces on the inner fabric and trace them, adding the same seam allowance.
Fabric for the Pockets
You will need one rectangle measuring 15 x 28 cm (5 ⅞ x 11 ⅛ inches) cut from each color fabric.
Step 5 Sewing the Interfacing
We begin by sewing the felt pieces by hand, so that the inner and outer layers can be perfectly matched (they will differ in size, as the interfacing is thick). First, sew the front of the basket—piece C to the bottom—piece A. If the front is longer, it should be aligned. Then sew on the back—piece B. Sew the pieces with a zigzag stitch so that they hold together tightly. This is a close up of the seams. Pay attention to the way you sew together the seams, put edge to edge.
Step 6 Finish the Insert
Final result for the “stiffening.” The interfacing holds the shape nicely.
Step 7 Inner Lining
Now for the inner layer. Here you also start by attaching the front piece to the bottom piece. Since you will have added a seam allowance, you have to snip into the lower edge of the front, by about 4-5 mm (or ⅛-¼ inches).
Step 8 Fitting the Layers
The pieces are joined by sewing with a straight stitch 1 cm (or ⅜ inch) from the edge. After sewing, check the fitting (put the joined lining pieces inside the stiffener shape to make sure they fit). If they do not, make the necessary adjustments.
After fitting, cut the seam allowance, about 3-4 mm (⅛ inch) from the sewing line.
Once again, check the fitting and use a fabric marker to mark the lines on which to sew the back of the lining.
Step 9 Finishing the Lining
Pin the pieces and sew them together. The seams are hidden in the “stiffener” layer. The lining of the basket is not sewn to the felt.
Step 10 Outer Shell Pockets
Begin by making the pockets. Fold under by 1 cm all edges of the pieces cut from outer fabric (12 x 14 cm (4 ⅝ x 5 ½ inches) – dimensions before pressing). After pressing in this way, pin one outer pocket piece to each of the main pocket pieces, as in the photo.
Step 11 Outer Pockets
The layers are sewn by topstitching right next to the pressed edge, for this purpose you can use a foot with a guide, so you are able to easily sew evenly from the edge. All you need to do is properly set the guide and the needle position. Sew about 2 mm (⅛ inch) from the pressed edge of the outer pocket piece.
Step 12 Main Pockets
Fold the pocket piece in half right sides together and sew the two parallel sides about 1.7 cm (⅝inch) from the edge of the outer pocket piece. Then trim the corners and turn the pocket inside out.
Step 13 Finished Pockets
Repeat for each pocket. After turning inside out, the pocket should look like this.
Step 14 Attach Pockets to Outer Shell
Now to attach the pockets on the outer fabric piece. Notice that the center of the middle pocket is centered on the fabric.
Step 15 Sewing the Pockets
Only sew the sides of the pockets, you can also use a foot with a guide.
Step 16 Lining the Pockets
The width between the sewing lines of each pocket is 10 cm (4 inches) with 1 cm (⅝ inch) distance from each other. This will separate them and at the same time make them open up.
Step 17 Hemming the Pockets
Now to sew the lower seams of the pockets, forming small pleats on each side towards the inside of the pocket.
Step 18 Combining the Layers
We attach the pieces of the outer layer together in the same way as we attached the inner lining pieces.
Now all you need to do is sew all the layers of the basket together. To do this, fold the edge of the top layer and press, then fold again 1.5 cm over all the other layers. The raw edges of the outer fabric go inside and the pressed edge is topstitched over the inner layers. Pin all the way around, and gather any excess fabric in the corners.
Step 19 Finishing Bag Opening
Use the straight stitch foot, which will make it easier to sew through materials of this thickness. For this you can make use of a magnetic ruler. When sewing, guide the edge of the basket right next to the guide, this will ensure your stitch line is an equal distance from the edge all around.
Step 20 Finished Basket
The basket looks like this after sewing the top edge all the way around.
Step 21 Make the Straps
The basket is ready, all that’s left is to sew the straps that you’ll use to hang it. To do this, pin two strips right sides together and sew them at 1 cm (⅝ inch).
Step 22 Pressing the Straps
Open and press the seams. Fold in both sides of the strip to a width of 2 cm (⅞ inch). Press again.
Step 23 Adding Velcro
Sew a piece of Velcro (the hook side) to the inside of the strap.
Step 24 Sewing the Straps
Fold the strip in half wrong sides together, and sew with a straight stitch right at the edges. Repeat for other strap.
Step 25 Sewing the Straps
After sewing the straps, attach them to the basket. Hide the unfinished edges of the straps under the Velcro piece (its soft side). At this stage, I suggest fitting the basket in the car and shortening the straps if necessary.
When sewing the Velcro piece, sew both straps at the same time. Sew with a straight stitch. The distance between the straps should be approx. 17 cm (6 ⅞ inches).
Your car basket is ready.
Feel free to leave any questions about this tutorial below. And if you do end up making your own basket, I’d love to see it. Take a pic, post it to your social media, and tag me. And while you’re at it, you can send pics to the original author of this tutorial at email address: e.szafranek@eti.com.pl.
Source and photo credits:
The Joy of Sewing
https://etiblog.com.pl/dzieciecy-koszyczek-do-samochodu/